The sewer system in your RV works the same as in a home, with one exception, there are tanks to hold the contents until ready to dump into a septic or sewer main.
In order for liquids to flow through a pipe, air must enter behind the fluid to prevent a vacuum thus stopping the flow. A simple example of this is filling a drinking straw with liquid, then placing your finger over the end. The contents of the straw stay in place until you remove your finger and release the seal allowing the liquid to flow out the other end.
If your RV is more than 10 years old or if you primarily stay in drier climates and you’ve tried all of the other tricks to eliminate gray tank odor, then consider this. Replace the drain vents that are usually located underneath the sinks. A shower may or may not have its own, usually connected to the bathroom sink if in close proximity of each other.
Inside of the vents, there is a rubber membrane that acts as a valve. Over time these valves can dry rot and not move to close off. (Like the finger on the end of the straw works.) Once these disks loose their elasticity, they stop moving freely and stop functioning properly. This allows for gases to back up (and liquids) and pass out thru the valve opening.
These are easily replaced. I just purchased three for our rig off Amazon for just under $7.00 a piece. Unscrew the old one, then screw in the new one. The hardest part is reaching some of them, but fortunately for me, mine were within easy arms reach.
So, if you’re dealing with gray tank odor and have cleaned your P traps, deodorized the tank and emptied the holding tank completely and you still are getting odors inside the coach…check the condition of the vent valves and replace if the rubber membrane feels dry or hard to the touch.
Tires on any type of RV are the topic of constant discussion which emphasizes how important they are to one’s enjoyment and safety while traveling. I’ve written here on our blog in the past about tires on many occasions and because it is such a popular and important topic, I’m writing about it again. This time I want to draw your attention to RV tire sidewall cracking, an issue that put our travels on hold for part of the summer.
We’ve owned our motorhome and have been on the road as full-timers for over six years. In that time, we replaced the tires that were OEM, that is Original Equipment by the Manufacturer. They served well for 10+ years and only one of the six ever presented us with an issue. When we no longer felt safe driving with them under our coach, we did what needed to be done and replaced them with six brand new tires.
Unexpected repairs are a part of RVing. Sometimes these repairs are minor in nature, like this RV bathroom faucet replacement, and other times they are major. Those major unexpected repairs can be the deciding factor for many whether or not they continue the lifestyle. I know when we faced the broken trailing arm issue years ago, we had to think long and hard about it.
It may seem insignificant at the moment, but some of the littlest things can lead to big and expensive problems if not discovered and dealt with immediately.
A while back, our coach was due for its annual servicing…oil and filter changes. During the process the servicing shop discovered that while lubricating the dozen or so lube points under the coach, we had a broken Zerk fitting on the drive shaft – totally broken off and missing.
First off remember this rule: WATER ALWAYS SEEKS THE PATH OF LEAST RESISTANCE.
This topic has been raised by many an RVer, when they discover water dripping from the ceiling of their slide out. The source of the leak is from one of two places … rain or water condensation being discharged from the roof top air conditioner.
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